People ask me all the time where I got my culinary education and my simple answer to that question is, “I read a lot.”
Much of what I know I owe to books. Like Will, who boasted to the Harvard kid in the film Good Will Hunting, you can get a pretty good education at the public library for a dollar fifty in late charges. I can’t say that my fines were that low, but over the years I’ve gleaned a significant amount of knowledge and ideas from the shelves at Bennet Martin.
Michael Ruhlman ranks as one of the top faculty in my meandering, unconventional culinary training. When I read Soul of a Chef, it was if he had singled me out among his pupils and handed me a personal, handwritten note that said, “you have what it takes.” I make stock the way he describes. I work diligently on my sauces as per his recommendation. When he wrote about the day he discovered why his egg sticks to the pan because it wasn’t hot enough, my fried egg problems were solved. All this from the pages of a book.
Anthony Bourdain, unlike Ruhlman, has shown me what I don’t want my kitchen to become. His books, which chronicle story after story of controlling, ego-driven chefs, have reinforced the image of what I want to stay away from. In fact, our kitchen was designed to be open to the public view. There is no place other than out at the dumpster to talk shit, and I want it that way. It’s far too easy to become cynical in the kitchen, and once cynicism infects your culture, you have to consult Gordon Ramsay as an antibiotic, and who wants that?
Then there are the numerous cookbooks, food magazines, and reference guides that I currently own, or borrowed or have since given away. There’s the magazine in the doctor’s office that displays a picture of a dish that inspired an idea for plating, or the quick scan of the periodicals in Barnes & Noble while waiting on a fresh pot of coffee to be brewed that produces a thought about what to serve on the next Pasta Night. For those who have their eyes open, an opportunity to learn something new might just be an arm’s length away.
I distinctly remember the feeling after about a month in my first job out of college, that I was no longer in a position of learning, but I was now putting my years of academic education into practice. I knew then that regardless of not finding myself in a classroom any longer, I could still learn and grow in my area of skill. Little did I know then just how accessible it was. It would just require more initiative on my part.
Below is a list of recent books and authors that serve as my tutors. Some are not food related, but that doesn’t mean they haven’t influenced my work in the kitchen. Don’t forget that’s how a good education works. They are listed in no particular order.
From Here You Can’t See Paris, Michael Sanders
Given to me by one of our regular customers. I love the insight into the cultural role of truffles, foie gras development, and rural French life style.
Insatiable, Gael Greene
This book tells me why I am glad I’m not a food critic. Seems more about her sexual escapades than an appreciate for the beauty of food.
God in a Cup - Michaele Weissman
A look into the obsessed world of specialty coffee and how the Western quest for the perfect coffee doesn't always translate into benefit for the grower, despite the practice of paying exorbitantly more than a fair price.
Alice Waters and Chez Panisse - Thomas McNamee
The story of a college girl's dream's that became an influential legend. She pointed a wayward country back to its simple roots of simple, pleasurable food.
Elements of Cooking, Michael Ruhlman
Mostly a glossary of cooking terms, which helps a cook learn the language of the kitchen. When people speak a common language, there is little limit on where they can go together.
Alinea – The Book, Grant Achatz
This is food porn at its best. Not the kind of food I aspire to make, but am inspired by the level of thought and commitment a team of people can display in executing a common vision.
Line Cook - blog
This guy cares about what he is doing. When you care, it doesn’t take much to emerge from the middle of the pack.
Tastespotting – blog
Look for plating, presentation ideas, as well as possible flavor combinations.
The Church of the Customer – blog This has spawned ideas of how to promote my business via word of mouth marketing. If I can get people to talk about my restaurant for me, we all win.
A Very Small Farm – William Winchester
A perennial read for me about a man’s quest to pursue a joyful life by living as a subsistence farmer. Making happiness is every bit as important as making money.
Bread – Jeffrey Hamelman The only book you will need on baking bread. If you are serious about learning, don’t waste your time on other bread recipe books. Baking bread is about 90 percent technique and only about 10 percent recipe. Hamelman gives excellent lessons on what to do with the dough in order to turn it into a memorable finished product.
