Saturday, May 30, 2009

Order up for 62

One of the things I like about my job is that there is a finish line at the end of the day. It’s easy to know when the work is done and how I did along the way. I know that when the gentleman at 62 shakes my hand and tells me that’s the best pork shoulder he’s ever had, I can assume he means it and that we did our job in the kitchen as we should have. Maybe he’s lying, but I doubt it.

Another thing I get to do after the finish line is to recount how the day progressed. Like now, sitting at my bar with a plate of our Prairie Sushi Rolls and an Old Stock, I remind myself of the guy who came back to the kitchen and with a puzzled look on his face asked me, “Where did you get the idea for the pavlova?” I had to be honest and say that pavlova is an egg white meringue and is fairly common in pastry baking. “My grandmother made that dessert, and I haven’t had it in 30 years. You took me back to a good memory of her. Thank you. Thanks so much.”

This is what I do for a living. I take people places.

I used to think it was prideful to retell these kinds of stories, and for certain, my enemies may pin that one on me, but my friends know how to rejoice when I rejoice. Celebration is and should be a natural part of life’s ebb and flow. I’m glad I have a job that has that opportunity built in, if I choose to take it.

I seldom post links to stories, but this one really applies more than most. It’s a New York Times article by Matthew Crawford titled, The Case for Working With Your Hands. It’s a fascinating look at the importance of having something from which you can derive satisfaction and pride. This makes more sense to me the older I get.

It was a good night of making food and making people happy. If you’ve never been in to bread&cup, I hope I get the chance to serve you soon.

ks

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Market Meal Photos

The lettuce, spinach and other greens are showing immediate signs of response to the pleasant rain we've enjoyed this morning. I can't wait to see how the plants change in two short days.

Here are a few photos from last week, taken by our good friend Kris. I hope you get a chance to come in soon. If you see something you like, chances are it may not appear again, as we only serve what is freshest and in season. Asparagus is on the way out, as will be the kale, but strawberries will arrive soon, along with all the other wonderful summer time produce.

Menu
















Raw Kale Salad
















Stuffed Kale with Asparagus & Sausage

Monday, May 18, 2009

On Fungus and Fireworks

Enjoying a slow start to the day on my quasi-day-off. Anyone who owns their own business knows that it wants to follow you wherever you go, so I have to learn to make it harder to tag along. So what am I doing writing? Isn’t that work?

Work related, I guess, but most usually I find writing an entry a replenishing act. I don’t think out loud through conversation; I do it internally via reflection and observation. Sitting on my little screened-in porch, listening to the wind surfing over the forty foot tall maple and oak trees in my 60’s era neighborhood, and watching the sparrow find twigs for her nest; this is where I do my best recovery work.

We had a nice weekend at the restaurant, even with Friday being slow. I wish there was some kind of objective research available to know how public responses work. I would guess there are certain factors like weather, or sporting events or holidays that make people think, “We should go there to eat.” But sometimes there almost seems to be an intangible mood that affects the restaurant business. I recall this kind of group think happened when I lived in a dormitory in college with 45 other guys. But does that reach across a whole city? I’d be curious to find out. I bet there is some professor out there that wrote a thesis on it. If you find it, let me know.

One thrill in my line of work is the anticipation of you eating the food we have taken great care in preparing. I liken it to finding that just-right gift for your friend’s birthday. You can’t wait to give it and see the response. I get that all the time. In fact, if a chef loses that excitement, it may be time to rethink the profession.

When I saw the large size of morel mushrooms Dave brought me last week, I immediately envisioned them placed in front of you in their final form on the square white plates that we use. We took some of the smaller ones and made a roasted puree and combined their rich earthy flavor with some fresh local goat cheese, and stuffed the larger ones with this filling. “Folks will love these.” I thought to myself, and you did, I relish this aspect of cooking.

I think our email list is working properly now, so hopefully no more blank or non existent emails will be sent uninforming you of what we will be serving. Weather sounds like it will be great this week. The Saltdogs home opener at Haymarket Park is this Friday, which means a free fireworks show after the game. Our patio is a perfect place to enjoy this display, which on average happens around 10pm, depending on when the game ends.

Make it count.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

How We Plan a Market Meal

The Farm-to-Table approach in dining is becoming a rising trend in restaurants around the country. For those unfamiliar with this idea, a chef will partner with farmers or growers and buy directly from them instead of a produce company that sources their products from a variety of large commercial operations, possibly all over the world.

When we started our Market Meal last year, I didn’t know that what we were doing had a name attached to it. I just thought it was good business. If I could buy superior asparagus from a woman I know, who raised it on her land and that it makes a mouth watering salad or entrĂ©e that makes you say, “You know, I’ve never liked asparagus, but this I love!” Why would I not do this?

Ours is a young, growing market. The Chef/Farmer/Grower networks in other parts of the country are miles ahead of us. One guy I know in the Kansas City area even sources his rice from a local farmer in Missouri. I don’t have a large number of people from which to get locally raised products, but I am doing what I can with what is available. I like to think we are blazing a trail here in Nebraska to take us back to our agricultural heritage in a way that is profitable and preferable.

Here’s how planning a Market Meal works:

Tuesday: A quick call to three of my favorite growers to find out what they have that looks good and what they might be bringing.

Thursday: Take inventory of the proteins that I have available. I usually order certain cuts ahead of time, since the quantity may not be in stock.

Friday:

10:30pm

  • Decide on proteins we will serve.
  • List seasonal items we know will likely be available
  • Talk through preliminary menu ideas with assistant chef.
  • Finalize preliminary menu

Saturday:

8:00am

Wander through Market and survey what folks have brought. See if there is anything unusual worth trying. Find Stinging Nettles. Make immediate decision to buy all of them and make soup. First change of plan

8:45am

Come back with armload of asparagus, bacon, spring onions, garlic shoots, beautiful heads of baby lettuce, morel mushrooms, sunflower & pea sprouts, feta cheese, flat leaf parsley and other fresh herbs

9:00am

Finalize and print out evening menu. Post online to website, send to Facebook and email list. Return to vendors with a printed menu listing the ingredient I purchased from them and how I will be using it that night.

10:00am

Display fresh produce on ice out on my counter for all to see what we are working with. Set prep list for myself and assistants. Begin braising. Brace for lunch.

2:00pm

Recover from lunch crowd. Nearly depleted all our bread, so prepare a second backup batch of dough. Watch dishroom get piled high. Say a short prayer for the evening dish guy.

3:00pm

Understand where stinging nettles get its name. Wrist has been itching for 30 min after brushing against it accidentally during prep. What guy looked at that weed and said to himself, “I’m gonna eat that.” Probably same guy who figured out cow brains were OK.

3:30pm

Temper dark chocolate for Chocolate Bacon dessert tonight. Is it just me, or am I off my rocker with this one?

5:15pm

Temp lamb roast; consider closing doors and just sitting down to eat it myself. This is why you buy local.

5:45pm

Front of the house begs me to begin selling courses. Not til 6pm.

5:50pm

Final check of all mise en place. Taste test items with staff. Thumbs up. Good to go.

6:00pm

Ready to serve, orders start in

7:40pm

A quick walk through the dining room. A woman tells me she never had morel mushrooms before and can’t believe what she is eating is so memorable. Another reminder to buy from folks I know.

8:30pm

Customer asks me where the idea for Chocolate Bacon came from; wasn’t sure he knew what to think about it, but said he enjoyed it anyway.

9:30pm

Service slows enough I can take off the apron and sit down and call it a day. Any lamb left? Beer Pastor brings me an IPA. I like it when she preaches.

9:45pm

First time customer stops to say thanks, tells me the food was excellent and looks forward to coming back. I love my job.